Autumn in the Garden

Autumn in the Garden
Autumn in the Garden: Cosmos Forest for our chitinous and feathered friends
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query nutsedge. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query nutsedge. Sort by date Show all posts

Wednesday, August 08, 2012

Yellow Nutsedge Wins Community Garden Weed of the Year Award!


Yellow nutsedge is the grasslike weed that is easily pulled, tricking you into thinking you have done it in.  What is not apparent is what's happening below ground.  The nutsedge has emerged from a little brown storage organ called a tuber.

When the 'grass' portion is removed, the little root breaks off leaving the tuber in the ground.  As long as that tuber is in the ground you will find the grasslike portion emerging again and again.  One tuber was buried over 5" and sent up a slender thread to emerge as a tiny nutsedge with the signature 3 leaves.

If you continue to pull the nutsedge when it is little, you will eventually exhaust the nutrient supply of the tuber and it will stop producing its vegetation above the soil line.

If you wait until the plant has matured, you have allowed the underground portion to multiply with many tubers.  Each will produce its own plant next May when the soil temperatures remain above 43ºF.

You may notice around this time of year the nutsedge flowers emerging.  While the main way of propagating itself is not through its flower seeds, if you have let it seed up, this means that there are tubers attached to the mass of delicate roots maturing below. Buds on the tubers or nutlets sprout and grow to form new plants; thus individual nutsedge plants eventually form patches that can range up to 10 feet or more in diameter.

The tuber is the part of the plant that survives the cold of winter.  If you want to get rid of a nutsedge infestation, then you have to remove the tubers.

How do you get rid of the tubers or 'nutlets'?
The majority of tubers can be found in the top 6 inches of soil where they can survive for 1 to 3 years.  When you go to remove the nutsedge seedling or clump, dig carefully around and down under the plant.  Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends digging “at least 10 inches deep and at least eight to 10 inches beyond the diameter of the above ground leafy portion of the plant.”   OR You can start early in the summer and every 2-3 weeks remove the emerging nutsedge seedlings before they have a chance to make new tubers.  This will force the mature tuber to keep producing until it exhausts itself.

Cornell Cooperative Extension recommends enclosing the tubers in a black plastic bag and leaving them to bake in the sun.  Do not put them in the compost pile!

There are uses for these tubers.  They are edible (soak first) and said to have a slightly sweet, nutty flavor.  They are sometimes known by their Spanish name, chufa. They are also known as Tigernuts and have a rich mineral content. The British boil them and use as bait for carp.

More about the nutsedge

Don’t let the leaves fool you. They superficially resemble grass but are thicker and stiffer than most grasses. Notice that the leaf is V-shaped in cross-section, not flat. They also emerge in sets of three from the base rather than sets of two like grasses.

This perennial plant, an indicator of poor drainage, thrives in waterlogged soil but once established can survive and persist with no irrigation.

Removal or eradication strategy after the plant has emerged, whether by hand weeding or herbicide applications, is most successful if done prior to the longest day of the year, June 21.  (When tubers are mature there is little translocation of a herbicide from the leaves to the tuber.  Of course, in an organic garden, no herbicides are allowed!)

NB: According to ATTRA, "... sweet potatoes have been shown to inhibit the growth of yellow nutsedge, velvetleaf, and pigweed. Field trials showed a 90% reduction of yellow nutsedge over two years following sweet potatoes."

Thursday, May 23, 2019

May Weeds

INDIAN MOCK STRAWBERRIES among the real ones!

MAY 1
Early in my gardening I nurtured one of these plants (Potentilla indica, formerly Duchesnea indica), mistaking it for a strawberry. I finally discovered its true nature. They still appear in the Garden.

How to distinguish them from the real ones? I find the leaves are softer and fuzzier, while those of the strawberry tend to be a bit leathery. If the flower is yellow, it’s definitely not a strawberry — the tasty edible strawberry flowers are white.

The berry of the Duchesnea indica (sometimes known 
as Potentilla indica) –  flowers around the beginning of May as does the true strawberry. Pull this ‘weed’ if you find one in your bed and put it in the compost bin.

For those who are interested in its medicinal & edible use visit Bellarmine University to find out about the positive qualities of this weed. Both the fruit and leaves are edible and medicinal.

YELLOW NUTSEDGE SEEDLINGS 

MID-MAY they begin appearing in the Garden!  Check out the Community Garden's Yellow Nutsedge Wins Community Garden Weed of the Year Award!.

Some already have little nuts attached to the roots. Remember, it’s those little nuts that survive the winter to reappear next Spring. Try to dig up the nutsedge before they have more than 3 leaves. And, don’t let the leaves fool you. They superficially resemble grass but are thicker and stiffer than most grasses. Notice that the leaf is V-shaped in cross-section, not flat. They also emerge in sets of three from the base rather than sets of two like grasses. Don’t let it get to the flowering stage. But if you do, look at the flowering stems — cut them and see that nutsedges are triangular in cross-section while grass stems are hollow and round.

The nutlets I've dug at this time are young — whitish and not brown like in the photo. They break off easily, so loosen the soil around the plant first and gently pull the weed out and put it in the trash. As these plants mature, they send out rhizomes to make a nice little Yellow Nutsedge colony.

If you find a small patch of nutsedge, Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends digging “at least 10 inches deep and at least eight to 10 inches beyond the diameter of the above ground leafy portion of the plant.” This is one wily weed!

Check this website Virginia Tech Weed ID by Scientific Name for photos of weeds in various stages of growth.

The National Gardening Association has extensive articles on Weeds such as this article on Indian Mockstrawberry with photos.

Sunday, June 16, 2019

Weeds' Patient & Prolific Progeny – Know Thine Enemy


The information below is sobering to keep in mind when dancing with weeds and letting them go to seed.  Some of those seeds will be viable long after we have become part of the earth in which they germinate!


Bindweed flowering


WEED SEEDS PRODUCED per PLANT 
and NUMBER of YEARS VIABLE
Many of these are in our Garden Plots

Bindweed 40 yrs   Long-lived perennial with deep root system – never let it seed!
Curly dock Rumex crispus  29,500   70 yrs
Foxtail   20 yrs
Canada Thistle   21 yrs
Crabgrass  8,000
Dandelions  100-200 seeds/head  6 yrs  Germinates immediately after reaching maturity...it has no after-ripening requirements. Seed keeps in a ziplock bag in a refrigerator for 2 years with extremely high germination.
Evening Primrose  70 yrs
Galinsoga ciliata   7,500    10 yrs + in soil
Lambsquarters Chenopodum album  72,450    7% viable after 38 yrs
Mullein Verbascum thapsus   223,200,   70 yrs
Nutsedge  100 – 2,000 
Pigweed (redroot)  117,400   10-40 yrs
Plantain Plantago major  36,000  40 yrs
Purslane Portulaca oleracea  52,300    40 yrs
Redroot pigweed Amaranthus spp  117,400   3 yrs Unknown viability after 38 yrs
Shepherd's purse Capselia bursa-pastoris 38,500   16 yrs
Smartweed  19,300
Ragweed (Common)  3,380   39 yrs

HOW to GROW WEEDS:
  • Seed germination occurs at or very near the soil surface. 
  • Light increases germination. 
  • The seed germinates when soil is moist and soil temperature is at least 50°F; however, germination is more rapid when the soil temperatures are closer to 77°F. 
  • Germination occurs throughout the growing season.